Izakayas (居酒屋) are Japanese gastropubs — casual, noisy, smoky, and central to Japanese social and work culture. Learning how to navigate one is essential for anyone living or working in Japan.
What Is an Izakaya?
An izakaya sits between a bar and a restaurant. You order food and drinks simultaneously throughout the evening — it’s not a dinner followed by drinks, it’s both at once, continuously.
- Sit-down format — usually floor cushions (座敷) or tables and chairs
- Small shared dishes — like tapas; order many and share
- Drinking is expected — but non-drinkers are accommodated
- Evening-only — most open 5pm or 6pm, close midnight or later
Types of Izakaya
| Type | Description | Price Range |
|---|---|---|
| Chain izakaya | Torikizoku, Watami, Shirokiya | ¥2,000–4,000/person |
| Independent (個人経営) | Neighborhood spots, often better food | ¥3,000–6,000/person |
| Specialty izakaya | Yakitori-ya, seafood, regional cuisine | ¥3,000–8,000/person |
| Standing bar (立ち飲み) | No seats, cheaper, quick drinks | ¥1,000–2,500/person |
How to Enter and Get Seated
- Wait at the entrance — a staff member will seat you (don’t seat yourself)
- Say the number in your party: “二人 (futari)” = 2 people, “三人 (san-nin)” = 3, etc.
- Smoking preference may be asked — 禁煙 (kin-en) = non-smoking
- You may be handed a warm towel (おしぼり, oshibori) — use it to clean your hands
The First Order: Drinks and Otoshi
First drinks: The server will ask almost immediately: “お飲み物はお決まりですか?” (What would you like to drink?)
Otoshi (お通し): You’ll automatically receive a small appetizer dish you didn’t order. This is otoshi — a cover charge in food form, typically ¥300–500/person. It’s not optional.
What to Drink
Beer (ビール)
- Draft beer (nama biiru) — most popular first drink
- Major brands: Asahi, Kirin, Sapporo, Suntory
Chu-hi (チューハイ)
- Canned or draft carbonated cocktail — shochu + flavored soda
- Very popular, light, usually ¥300–500
Highball (ハイボール)
- Whisky + soda — very popular in Japan; excellent with food
Sake (日本酒)
- Ask for 冷酒 (reishu) for cold sake or 熱燗 (atsukan) for warm sake
Shochu (焼酎)
- Japanese spirit distilled from barley, sweet potato, or rice
- Usually served with ice (on the rocks) or soda
Non-Alcoholic Options
- ウーロン茶 (oolong tea) — most common
- ジュース / ソフトドリンク — soft drinks available at all izakayas
Nomihodai (飲み放題) — All-You-Can-Drink
Many izakayas offer a 2-hour all-you-can-drink option for ¥1,500–3,000. Worth it if you plan to drink throughout the evening.
What to Eat
Must-Order Dishes
Edamame (枝豆) — Salted soybeans. Always a good start. ¥300–500.
Karaage (唐揚げ) — Japanese fried chicken. Essential.
Yakitori (焼き鳥) — Grilled chicken skewers. Order various cuts:
- ねぎま — chicken + green onion
- もも — thigh
- つくね — minced chicken patty
Sashimi (刺身) — Raw fish, typically a fresh seasonal assortment
Gyoza (餃子) — Pan-fried dumplings
Tofu dishes — Agedashi tofu (揚げ出し豆腐) — lightly fried, in dashi broth
Potato salad (ポテサラ) — A comfort food staple at izakayas
###締め (Shime) — The Final Dish End the meal with a starchy dish: rice, ramen, ochazuke (rice in tea broth). This signals the evening is winding down.
Etiquette and Unwritten Rules
Pouring Drinks
- Don’t pour your own drink — pour for others, and let them pour for you
- When someone pours for you, hold your glass with both hands
- When your glass is near empty, someone will offer to refill it — hold it up in response
Kanpai (乾杯)
- Wait for everyone to have a drink before the first sip
- Hold glasses up together: “乾杯!” (Kanpai!)
- It’s polite to clink at eye-level (higher = more respect)
Ordering
- Catch the server’s attention by saying “すみません” (sumimasen)
- Many izakayas now have tablet ordering — just tap and confirm
Paying
- Bills are per table, not individual
- When ready to pay, say “お会計をお願いします” (okaikei wo onegai shimasu)
- Splitting is common — apps like PayPay make this easy
Popular Izakaya Chains (Beginner-Friendly)
| Chain | Good For | Price |
|---|---|---|
| Torikizoku (鳥貴族) | Yakitori, all items ¥360 | Very cheap |
| Watami (和民) | Everything, large menu | Mid-range |
| Shirokiya (白木屋) | Variety, nomihodai deals | Mid-range |
| Uotami (魚民) | Seafood focus | Mid-range |
| Tengu (天狗) | Classic izakaya feel | Mid-range |